PanoTools NG:
Re: Nodal Point Issues
tflyfish2002 2007-Mar-18 21:56:28
With a fisheye lens on a pano bracket it is normal to see the base,
that the part of the bracket that appears in your pano by shooting a
Nadir shot. You should be careful with PTGui and AutoPano when using
either of these to generate control points, sometimes the bracket that
appears in all of the pics can is chosen to make control points,
these should be removed. I try to ensure that all my control points
are in the true overlap areas of my shots.
If you can clearly see parallax errors in you around shots then
obviously you do not have the correct NPP. I have not used the Wiki
for my lens since it does not appear there, I use a 10.5. You can use
one of the methods shown somewhere on the Wiki to check for parallax
before shooting. The post and fence method is pretty good.
If you are not using PTGui I would strongly suggest downloading the
demo and try it, it is really good and not expensive at all. You will
need to find the pano12.dll with the fisheye FOV restriction removed
though. I do not have a URL to hand for that but I am sure that a
Google search will find it.
Bazzer
> Hello All,
>
> Recently, I upgraded my pano camera system to a Canon 400D and a
> Peleng 8mm fisheye with a Nodal Ninja 3 pano head. I used the
> table-with-pins method to set the nodal point and confirmed it by
> looking up the lens in the pano wikapedia entry (It says 44mm from
> the lens base). I will admit that I have never used a fish-eye lens
> before.
>
> I have two problems;
>
> First, if it is set at 44mm, the camera sensor sees the NN3 bracket
> in the lower right corner of every image. In order to avoid this,
> the pano mount nodal must be set at about 37mm (bad as this would
> induce parallax errors) OR I need to shoot with a 15-20 degree
> elevation. I figure I must be missing something basic as it appears
> this problem should occur regardless of the nodal head used (with the
> nodal point near the base of the front lens and the near-180 vertical
> FOV, a fish-eye lens will see the pano-head hardware, not?) and it
> doesn't sound like that this is the case with anyone else here. As
> the 400D uses a 1.6 crop, it sees it just in the corner but would not
> a full circular sensor (i.e 5D) see the forward half of the entire
> nodal-head assembly?
>
> Second, when I shoot a 6-around, they do not stitch very well (seam
> errors). I use PTMac (unlimited) with the circular crop fisheye lens
> settings and have tried both automatic and manual control points and
> optimizing).
>
>
> What am I missing? Perhaps I am misinterpreting the definition of
> "lens base" or I need to switch to PTGui to process fish-eye frames
> or the EOS adapter is incorrectly attached on the lens?
>
>
> Thnx for any help (education).
>
>
> David S.
>
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-->
Something is new at Yahoo! Groups. Check out the enhanced email design.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/kOt0.A/gOaOAA/yQLSAA/gWFolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
--
<*> Wiki: http://wiki.panotools.org/
<*> Nabble (web) http://www.nabble.com/PanoToolsNG-f15658.html
<*> NG Member Map http://www.panomaps.com/ng/
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:#removed#
mailto:#removed#
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
#removed#
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/