PanoTools:
Re: Blending Large Overlaps
Roger D. Williams 2006-Jun-13 06:42:28
I am prepared to believe this, of course, but I cannot follow the
description of what you are doing. Please don't bother to explain
further. I use PaintShopPro, and it is obviously too different.
At the moment I save the blended panorama and the layers, put
what I want to show underneath, and what I want to hide on top,
and just erase the top layer until what i want to see of the bottom
layer shows through. Works for me.
Roger
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 16:49:16 +0900, Yuval Levy
<#removed#> wrote:
> Geraldine Joffre wrote:
>> Try those other tonemapping algorithms (with Artizen HDR for instance)
>
> it crashed my computer.
>
>
>> I don't have the impression that you tried the most used exposure
>> blending function of Photomatix named "H&S - Auto". People like it
>> precisely because it gives results that look natural.
>
> I do not know about Jeffrey, but I have found that your "H&S details
> auto" is exactly what I need most of the times. At about 8 EV brackets
> the result becomes a little bit too dull for my taste (but then all of
> this tonemapping is an extremely subjective topic) and in that case I go
> with HDR and tonemapping.
>
> Tonemapping with Photomatix provides enough variation through the
> sliders and settings and I get immediate feedback on how the picture
> will look like. I can slide/set until the halos are not disturbing me.
>
> The main advantage I found of tonemapping vs. exposure blending is that
> it can give a spin to the panoramas. I recently shot a rainbow on a lake
> at sunset and the added tonemapping contrast makes it awesome and
> surreal.
>
>
>> Moreover, it is
>> more convenient for panographers than tonemapping because it does not
>> require to stitch differently exposed panos. You only need to stitch
>> the images resulting from combining the bracketed shots in Photomatix.
>
> I will have to try the process you describe above. I admit a certain
> reluctance because my guts feeling tells me that the separately combined
> individual images will have different exposure and color balance? You
> might push me to try it if you add chromatic aberration and vignetting
> correction to your RAW conversion. Then I'd feed the RAWS into
> Photomatix and forget about Adobe RAW converter.
>
> Which brings me to another question posted by Roger on this thread: the
> ghosting people and other moving objects.
>
> In some panos I find the ghosts of people moving between shots to be
> part of the artwork - e.g. when shooting on a busy pedestrian area.
>
> The technique to avoid moving objects has become very simple since the
> latest PTgui can take alpha-transparent TIFFs as an input. I know you
> are using another software than Photoshop, Roger, but I am confident
> that you can try my process below also with that software:
>
> * open tiff file of individual shot
> * switch from layers to channels
> * click on little icon to add an alpha transparency layer
> * set colors to foreground white background black
> * fill the whole area in white
> * make the RGB channels visible again
> * take the eraser tool in block mode and remove unwanted details - in
> doing so pay attention that you have overlap from another input shot. I
> always open two adjacent shots together to decide what area of which I
> want to erase.
> * save the tiffs with alpha channels and feed into PTgui.
> * repeat if this did not yield the expected result.
>
> Then, to backup the whole project, since I do not save the (heavy)
> TIFFs, but only the RAWs, the XMPs (Photoshop's conversion data) and the
> PTSs (Ptgui's project):
> * rightclick on alpha layer and duplicate channel to a new document
> * save for later reference as photoshop XXXXalpha.psd where XXXX is the
> number/name of the image
>
> This way I optimize storage (all the images and information needed to
> re-create the pano are stored) and replicability (I can replay any step
> in the process).
>
> Yuv
>
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--
Work: www.adex-japan.com, Play: www.usefilm.com/member/roger
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